The term "silk-painting" is slightly confusing. Although they are painted on, many "silk-paints" are actually true dyes which penetrate the silk fibres and form a chemical bond when they are steamed. These are sometimes known as French Dyes and there are many makes and makers, such as Kniazeff, marketed by Ateliers Creatifs; Jacquard; Dupont; etc. Each manufacturer offers their own range of colours. Some ranges are more extensive than others. The more colours, the less mixing and note-taking you have to do.

They are all basically acid dyes, but sold in liquid form. Acid dyes can also be purchased in powder form but these must be mixed very carefully in the studio. In general, acid dyes are used for protein fibres such as silk and wool.

French Dyes should not be confused with fibre-reactive dyes (such as Procions). Fibre-reactives such as Procions can also be used on silk and sometimes need steaming. But they are a different product and process which I do not currently use.

Iron-fix silk-paints, however, are generally pigment-based and are more truly paints than dyes. The pigment base, holding the colour, bonds to the surface of the fabric with heat, such as an iron. For this reason, iron-fix paints often alter the handle of the silk, making it stiffer. They can also be less fade and wash resistant and the design on the back of the fabric can be less distinct than the front. Many painters who produce wall pieces prefer iron-fix dyes; they are also very suitable for those who do not wish to go through the process of steaming work.

Painters have their favourite system. My choice is for steam-fixed dyes. I like their brilliance and range of colours.

Different dye systems require different steaming times and there are many types of commercial steamer. It is possible to build an efficient steamer from a small stove and a metal stove pipe, or do small quantities at home using tin foil and some improvised cooking equipment. But remember, items used with dyes should be kept separate and NEVER be used for cooking.

The dyes I normally use require about three hours of steaming. The work is put in the steamer just before the water boils so that the heat builds up as fast as possible once the assembly is complete.

A thermostat keeps the temperature constant. Many steamers have a self-timer, or a timer switch can be used.

My steamer components are relatively tight-fitting and I don't find I need to top up with water during steaming. But it is obviously important the steamer doesn't boil dry.

In cold weather I often wrap a blanket around the pipe to ensure the heat builds up correctly and that there isn't actually too much steam inside the chamber. Too much steam means the work can become wet before it fixes, and then runs and bleeds occur. I have found this particularly important when fixing silk on which Resistad has been used.

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